It’s difficult to not get curious with these blue coloured skincare products, isn’t it? Especially, when the blue colour represents healing and acne relieving. I was sold instantly.
The blue colour actually comes from an ingredient called Guaiazulene, an extract (steam distilled) from German Chamomile.
Klairs was one of the early ones who used Guaiazulene in their Midnight Blue Calming Cream for treatment of sensitive and acne-prone skins. This cream is one of their best sellers. I’ve used this cream on and off as a spot treatment for over 1 year. It has performed pretty well for those deep, hidden pimples, helping reducing inflammation and expedite the healing process. I rarely use this as an all-over cream, because the texture is slightly occlusive and not hydrating enough, my skin gets greasy when I use it as an all-over cream.
Recently, Neogen came out with their Sur. Medic+ Azulene Soothing Cream, which is intended to be a facial moisturiser rather than a spot cream. I jumped on it when I had a bad break out on my chin two weeks ago and I needed a simple, hydrating, soothing cream.
Neogen Sur. Medic+ Azulene Soothing Cream has very similar packaging to the Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream. The cream is housed in a black coloured glass jar with a twist-top cap. The jar feels weighty and sturdy in hand. I really like the inner lid. It’s made with sturdy plastic and sits well on the glass jar, easily taken off and slide on, without being too tight or too loose.
Overall, it’s a great packaging for a cream like this. Well-made and sturdy.
Neogen Sur. Medic+ Azulene Soothing Cream
Water, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 60, Glycerin, Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, Coco-Caprylate / Caprate, Guaiazulene (300ppm), Centella Asiatica Extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Madecassoside, Polyacrylate-13, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyisobutene, Glyceryl Stearate, Beeswax, Tromethamine, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin , Panthenol, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Ceramide NP (Ceramide 3), Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Calamine, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Simmondsia Chinesis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Betula Platyphylla Japonica (Birch Sap) Juice, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Propanediol, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA
Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream
Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sorbitan Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Ceramide NP, Polysorbate 60, Candelilla Cera, Chlorphenesin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Morus Alba Root Extract, Tromethamine, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract, Guaiazulene, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-9, sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Soybean/Folic Acid Ferment Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol
From the lists above, it’s pretty obvious that the top few ingredients in both creams are common to each other. Neogen labelled its content of Guaiazulene (300ppm or 0.3%) whereas Klairs didn’t. Guaiazulene is pretty low on the list for the Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream, just before peptides, which is usually in very low concentrations.
Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream has more heavy emollients (eg. Shea Butter, Argan Oil and Jojoba Oil) higher on the list. This explains the difference in their texture – Neogen is more watery whereas Klairs is more occlusive.
Neogen Sur. Medic+ Azulene Soothing Cream contains a few skin-soothing / acne-combating ingredients that are not found in the Klairs one. This includes active components of Centella (Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Madecassoside), Calamine, Calendula and Tea Tree Oil.
On the other hand, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream contains 5 types of peptides.
From the ingredients list, it seemed that the Neogen Sur. Medic+ Azulene Soothing Cream is designed for normal/combination skin targeting at skin soothing and acne control, whereas the Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream is a heavier cream for dryer skin targeting at moisturising and anti-aging.
I wouldn’t use the colour as a guide for Guaiazulene concentration, as one can use more clear coloured emollients vs white coloured emollients to control the colour intensity.
Both of these creams are colourless when spread out on the skin.
As discussed in the “ingredients” section above, Neogen Sur. Medic+ Azulene Soothing Cream has a lighter texture compared with the Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream. Neogen is wetter, less occlusive and spreads further than Klairs.
Both the Neogen and the Klairs are great for soothing inflammation and expedite the healing of acne. They work especially well for larger pimples that are deep inside the skin. These creams soothe the skin instantly, reduce redness and pain, as well as the size of the pimples.
Neogen Sur. Medic+ Azulene Soothing Cream, providing sufficient hydration and moisturisation without being too heavy or occlusive. It also forms a barrier and keeps the skin hydrated for long periods of time.
Neogen Sur. Medic+ Azulene Soothing Cream retails for 25,000 Won (~$32 AUD) for 50ml of product. Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream retails for 21,900 Won (~$28 AUD) for 30ml of product. Neogen is a lot cheaper than Klairs. However, Klairs also do a larger 60ml tube for this cream, which comes to a similar price as the Neogen one.
Neogen Sur. Medic+ Azulene Soothing Cream and Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream are virtually very similar products. Highly recommend if you have sensitive or acne-prone skin. I feel Neogen is a little more oily-skin-friendly than Klairs.